18 September

20140227-235341.jpg“Dieciocho” for short but, for many of us, probably 18th September is much easier!  The time of year when Chile celebrates their patriotic holidays and Chileans are at their proudest.

What should be two public holidays, somehow becomes three if it leaves one day between the official holidays and a weekend (most of the time) and, in turn, unofficially becomes a week of holidays.

People are either partying, or they leave town, leaving Santiago with a dramatically reduced amount of traffic.  Many stores are closed, and it pays to stock up on supplies beforehand, making the stores as busy as the day before Christmas or New Year’s Eve.

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And the parties, well, they’re big.  Referred to as “fondas”, they are held all over town in public parks.  These days, there’s a queue and a fee to get in to most, and you pay an awful lot for food and drink once you’re in there. It certainly doesn’t seem to detract from people having a great time; dancing “cueca” (the national folk dance), watching live entertainment, eating traditional food, and drinking chicha or terremotos (“earthquakes”, a cocktail made with pineapple gelato and “pipeña”, young, bulk wine).

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Everybody is out for a good time, and many people dress in traditional costume – the old, the young, pets and, yes, even (ex) politicians aren’t opposed to throwing on a poncho!  (In fact, given the timing at the end of the presidential campaign, they probably lead the charge.)

20140227-235458.jpgSeptember is a windy month, and it’s a traditional time to fly kites. Although there’s been an influx on the market of cheap Chinese-made kites, you can still see a lot of artisan kite makers, and the streets are often lined with their colorful stalls.

It’s the biggest event of the year and, if they’re not celebrating in public, they’re celebrating with family, or just getting the hell out-of-town for a nice break after a chilly winter.

It’s a nice time to be in Chile, to share in the festivities and witness the burst of Chilean patriotism. Yes, definitely one of the things I love about living in Chile.

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PS.  Hmmm, one more post to go in my challenge!  I wonder what it will be.  There are lots of other little things I love … the sunny days, the cool nights, the lack of creepy crawlies (every Australian knows what I’m talking about here!), the historic town square, particular restaurants, the first half an hour after you clean your floor (the rest of the time, not so much!), the opportunity to speak another language … oh, what will it be?  I guess you’ll have to tune in to find out!  See you tomorrow.

Lastarria

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20140223-211518.jpgThis historical neighbourhood is my favourite part of town and, after a lot of searching for an apartment, I’m happy to call it home.

It’s full of beautiful buildings, leafy little streets, restaurants, bars, cafes, and even has its own little arthouse cinema.  It’s close to Parque Forestal, and the metro, making it easy to get around.  It’s popular amongst tourists and locals alike, and it’s one of the things I love most about living in Santiago.

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fun foodie events

20140221-172922.jpgWhen I first arrived in Santiago, it didn’t really seem to have a big culinary scene. Certainly, after the wide range of “puertas cerradas”, restaurants, parrillas and great bars in Buenos Aires, Santiago’s line up paled by comparison.

But, after much research, more time to get to know the city, and advise from people who had been around a lot longer, more options started to bubble to the surface. And not just the range of restaurants to try out, but in particular, those events that take place outside the standard confines of a restaurant.
The many different iterations of “cena escondida” (hidden dinner) events.

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Creative chefs who either don’t have their own permanent space, or want to use it a little differently, and try something new, without a standard menu that only changes once every couple of months.

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There are Chilean chefs who want to honour traditional recipes with quality produce, or take quality local and produce something creative, sometimes testing the boundaries, based on what’s fresh and in season.  There are chefs that have come from abroad, putting their own creative spin on the wide range of available ingredients.  The common underlying factor is that they want the freedom to express themselves through their food, and produce a quality product which, for the consumers, is great news.

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Most of the events are based on shared tables, making it suitable for solo diners but, of course, it is always nice to go with someone with shared interests so finding some fellow foodie friends here was a big bonus!

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It’s not as easy to keep up with what’s going on in these circles as it is to walk past your local restaurant and see if they’re open.  Many a time a local has asked me “but, how do you know about these things?”.  It’s really a case of keeping “an ear to the ground”, and social media and word-of-mouth goes a long way.

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So, despite my initial reservations upon arriving in Santiago, I now find there is such a wide variety of events that it’s sometimes impossible to keep up and, for the budget and the waistline, I can’t get to all of them.  Still, it’s great to seek out something new and interesting, and treat ourselves once in a while, definitely something I love about living in Chile!

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