The Andes

20140216-182224.jpgWhether you’re looking at them, drinking wine at the foot of them, flying over them, skiing on them, riding horses on them, or trekking in them (yeah, right!), there is no denying that The Andes are one of Chile’s most beautiful and majestic features.

For someone that comes from a relatively flat country, I am still often blown away by the sight of them.

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They are particularly beautiful in winter, when they are snow-capped and catch the most amazing light of the sunset.  But even in the heat of summer, it amazes me that there is still snow up there.

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I can be walking down a city street, and suddenly catch a glimpse between tall buildings, or running through the park, and glance up and see the glacial tops. We even had some fresh snowfall yesterday, along with some very unexpected February rain in the city.

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They are truly amazing, completely different to anything in my home country, and one of the things I love about living in Chile.

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wineries!

20140214-180853.jpgWineries!  La la la, sing a happy song!

Well, here I am, halfway through my challenge to write, every day during the month of February, about something that I love about living in Chile.

Who would have thought that I would wait SO long to write about wineries?  Well, I did say that my posts would be in no particular order, but it seems quite appropriate to use the halfway milestone AND Valentine’s Day to write about one of the things that I love the most.

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I’ve written about wineries in Chile before, and the fact that they are one of the big reasons that I decided to stay here.  You really can’t go very far outside of Santiago and you’ll hit a wine region but, go even further, and you hit even more wine regions.

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So far, I’ve visited many of the major valleys, such as Elqui, Casablanca, San Antonio, Maipo, Rapel, Colchagua, Curico, Maule; and have many more to explore.  I have a trip planned to Cachapoal in a week, and after that, the next on my hit list is Aconcagua because I’ve tried some very nice wines from Errazuriz and Von Siebenthal.

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Not only are the wineries great because of the wine, although that’s obviously a BIG drawcard.  The Chilean scenery is amazing, the wineries themselves are unique and beautiful, the people are lovely, and it’s sometimes just nice to get out of the city and explore.

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It’s even better to share the experience with other people and enjoy it together, which is what led me to start my new project, “Chile Wine Trails“.

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So today, a day centred around love, I am using the occasion to pay homage to one of the things I love most about living in Chile – it’s beautiful wineries!

Happy Valentine’s Day!

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South America

20140211-202151.jpgOr “location, location, location!”

Let’s face it, I’m not just living in a new country, but also a new continent, which brings with it a variety of different places, people and culture, and fantastic opportunities to explore.

It’s not like I’m on the move all the time like last time I visited South America and covered 7 countries in five months.  I work and have some form of daily/weekly routine that keeps me in Santiago most of the time.

But living here allows me to get out from time to time, and get to know places that would be   s o   f a r   away if I was still in Australia.

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I have managed to see a little more of Chile, flying up to San Pedro de Atacama when a friend visited, taking a road trip up the coast and into Valle de Elqui with another visiting friend, and another road trip south as far as Valle de Maule with another friend. These latter two trips obviously incorporated some wine and, indeed, my interest in that field has also led me to explore, in depth, many of the wine regions around Santiago.

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I saw a lot of the rest of Chile when I was here last time, but I’m sure the opportunity will come up at some stage to revisit more of this beautiful country.

But there is, of course, also opportunity to get out to see a little more of the continent.

Last August, I took a truly-foodie trip to Lima with fellow-foodie-friend Fernando and, in addition to seeing some of the city’s sites, experienced the great range of Peruvian food, from the street, to China Town, to the city’s top two restaurants.  Although I would have liked to have seen the sun sometimes (Lima is notoriously cloudy), the trip was delicious, fun, and worth the extra 5 kilos!

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Over New Year, it was great to be able to take a friend up on a very kind invitation to spend some time on his country property in Uruguay.  After finding some reasonably priced flights, a group of four friends enjoyed a relaxing time together, sharing home cooked meals and exploring the coastline and surrounding areas.  Those of us who were visiting, albeit for a second or third time, got to know a different part of country and enjoy seeing it through the eyes of someone that had lived there for 10 years and knows it very well.

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When a Buenos Aires-based friend managed to get a free apartment for a week in Mendoza, I was able to find a very reasonable flight (US$140 return – cheaper and quicker than the bus) and join her and another friend for a girly week of wineries and restaurants.  With the exchange rate very much in our favour, it turned out to be an indulgent week with a relatively cheap price tag.

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So, I’ve managed to get to know some places a little better and it’s great to be able to jump at these opportunities, which would be so far from reality back home, when they arise.

This year, I plan to see some places that I’ve never been before, both of Chile (e.g. Easter Island), and abroad, like Colombia.

Although flights here are not cheap compared to Europe or the US, where competition is more intense, good offers come around and I will be keeping my eye on them to see what other opportunities present themselves.

So, I don’t just love living in Chile, I love living and experiencing all that a whole new continent has to offer!

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Valpo

20140209-220606.jpgValparaiso is Chile’s biggest port city and, before the Panama Canal, was thriving.  Now, it’s still an active, if less-busy, port, but the city now thrives on tourism.

The lower part of Valpo is built on reclaimed land from the sea, and the surrounding steep hills are filled with colourful, tightly packed houses – all different colours because they were apparently originally painted with whatever leftover paint was available after the ships had been painted.

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Another unique characteristic of Valpo is the “elevators” that carry people up the hills, for about $200 pesos (40 cents).  Many of the elevators are currently under repair, but a few of the main ones still operate.

20140209-220549.jpgI visited Valpo for the first time when I was here five years ago, stayed a couple of nights, ran around and saw the major “tourist attractions” (including one of Pablo Neruda’s houses), got debilitating food poisoning from something and, when I was able to, went back to Santiago.

No wonder that, when I got back to Santiago last year, I wasn’t really in a hurry to go back to Valpo.  I went to the beautiful Casablanca Valley (which is on the way) a number of times, but never bothered to go any further than that.

My next trip to Valpo eventually came about after living in Santiago for 7 months, when some friends were visiting from Argentina and we took a day trip on the bus.  I went again shortly afterwards when a bestie visited from Australia, and we spent a day in Casablanca before continuing on for an overnight stay in Viña del Mar, and an exploration of Viña and Valpo the following day.

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Each time I go, I discover a little more about Valpo and love it a little more.  Sure, at ground level, it’s still a port city – grungy and dirty and at times, a little shifty.  But there is beautiful architecture and interesting life and, hit the hills and (as touristy as they are), they are an open-air gallery of beautiful street art and lovely hidden art galleries that you can explore for hours.

20140209-220737.jpgThere are also great restaurants and, in a case of third-time-lucky, I finally got to “Pasta e Vino” with some visiting Aussie friends, and have been back twice since!

It’s quickly become probably my favourite restaurant in Chile and, yes, I’ve been known to take a Sunday trip to Valpo just to have lunch there after fantasizing about their corn gnocchi with carne mechada.  Yum!

20140209-220757.jpgIf you have a car, great, but it’s a cheap and short 1.5 to 2 hour bus trip from Santiago, and you don’t have to worry if you have a couple of wines at lunch.

So, now, I’ve come to think of Valpo less as a place that you go to show visitors around, and more as a nice day trip from Santi to get out-of-town on the weekend, eat well, and spend some quiet time exploring the meandering and colourful side streets and their resident galleries.  It’s almost like the Melbourne equivalent of Daylesford, without the spas.

Valpo, you have definitely become one of the things I love about living in Chile.

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vendimia

20140204-171315.jpgVendimia!  Vintage!  Harvest Festival!

I had SO much fun last year, and the first festival of the season is just one month away. The biggest, held in Santa Cruz in the Colchagua Valley, will run from 7-9 March, and the other regions will soon fill the calendar in the weekends after that, finishing in early April.

I managed to make it to at least four last year, Colchagua, Buin, Pirque and Casablanca, plus a couple of private ones at wineries and restaurants. Hopefully I can get to as many this year, and maybe fit Curico into the mix.

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Folk dancing (cueca), live music, grape squashing, traditional costumes, local produce, great weather, country settings, good friends, lots of delicious food, and wine, wine, wine!

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It’s the best time of year to be in Chile, and one of the things I love most about living here.